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w. J. BEATTIE METHOD OF MANUFACTURING SOFT COLLARS AND PRODUCT THEREOF 1933; Original Filid'kug. 11', 1930 1 Re. 12 2755 1.

H 5 1 ltIIIIlIIIIIIIIlIII/IIIIII Reiuued Feb. 7, 1933 m'reo STATES PATENT OFFICE WALTER J. BEATTIE, OI COHOES, NEW YORK, ASSIGNOB TO THE IBEATTIE MANUFACTUR- ING 60., 01 0030188, NEW YORK, A CORPORATION OF NEW YORK METHOD OF MANUFACTURING SOFT COLLABS AND PRODUCT THEREOF Original No. 1,795,704, dated Batch reissue filed June 28, 1981. Serial No. 546,398.

The present invention relatesto the manufacture of collars of the type having a foldover to comprisin a luralit of lies.

Colla is of the soft or semi-sh ft ty pe having multiple ply fold-over tops may be conveniently divided into two distinct classes fromthe standpoint of the method employed in manufacture. The first class may be identified as the machine-turned collar, and the second class the hand-turned collar.

In the manufacture of the machine-turned collar the facing plies of the top'are folded along their edges, and are disposed in registry with one another with the edges inturned and facing; an interliner is ordinarily disposed between the plies and the collar is then stitched by a single marginal line of stitching. Subsequent operat ons do not change this relation of the several plies.

In the manufacture of the handturned collar, the same three plies are superimposed in registry with one another, the two facing plies being arranged together, and the interliner initially forming a third and outer ply. The three plies are then stitched together by a marginal line of stitching which extends along one longitudinal edge and the two transverse-edges. Where the longitudinal and transverse lines of stitching meet, the collar points are formed. The collar is then turned inside out, ordinarily by a manual operation, with the result that the interliner is disposed between the two facing plies and edges of all three plies are inturned, thereby concealing the stitching. Thereafter a second marginal line of exposed stitching is run paralleling the concealed longitudinal and transverse lines of stitching, thus forming a completed top which is ready for attachment to the band.

The present invention relates primarily to this second class of collars which involves the turnin operation after the three plies are stitched together.

Although by far the eater portion of collars now manufacture? are of the handturned type, a serious objection to this type of collar has been the lack of uniformit 1n the shape of the collar points formed w ere the longitudinal and transverse lines of stitching meet. By point, I mean not merely the exact juncture of the transverse and circumferential edges, but also the area between and along these edges adjacent their juncture. Since these lines of stitching are spaced somewhat from the edges of the plies,

the subsequent inturning operation rovides a surplus of material at the oints, t us rendering the same objectionabl y bulky. Moreover, since the arrangement of the sur lus material at these points has been depen ent upon the uniformity in width of the material between the line of stitching and the edge, and the accuracy of the operator in turning the collar, this surplus material is not uniformlv distributed in points of different collars or even in the points of the same collar. Consequently, the subsequent pressing operation. does not provide points which are uniformly shaped, due to the fact that the points are not given and held to predetermined contour before the pressure and heat are applied.

Since the points of'the fold-over top are the most conspicuous portions of a collar, they are the portions of the collar to which those experienced in the trade primarily direct their attention in determining quality and salability of the article.

An object of the present invention is to provide an improved method for the manufacture of collars which will uniformly distribute the excess or bulking material at the collar points and produce points of predetermined and uniform shape.

A further object of the invention is to provide means forretaining the'shape produced by this method even after laundering operations which are necessary after the collar has become soiled.

Although the methodmay be practiced entirely by manual operations, I prefer to em ploy in connection with certain steps a ma.- chine of the character disclosed in my 00- pending application, Serial No. 474,590, filed August 11, 1930.

The invention also relates to the collar produced by the method and an object is to provide a collar having uniform or matched points of predetermined shape which will be retained substantially throughout the life of the collar.

In the accompanying drawing which illustrates certain steps in the method,

Fi ure 1 is a plan view showing the several top p ies cut and stitched together along one longitudinal edge and the two transverse .ed es of the top.

igure 2 is a cross sectional View on the line 22 of Figure 1.

Figure 3 is a fragmentary plan view showt e collar after it. has been turned. igure 4 is a cross sectional viewon the line H of Figure 3. V

Fi re 5 is a. fragmentary view showing the ormer die inserted and with a part of the same together with portions of the top ply and interliner broken away on the line 5-5 of Figure 6.

Figure 6 is a sectional view on substantially the line 66 of Figure 5.

Figure 7 is a plan view illustrating aportion of the step employed in shaping the and with the stitching and free ed points. i

Figure 8 is a fragmentary view showing a means for pressing and shaping the point.

The top (Fig. 1) is of conventional outline, having longitudinal or circumferentially extending edges 10, 11, transverse edges 12 and points P, the longitudinal edge 10 bein the free or lower edge and the edge 11-t e partwhich is ordinarily inserted in and stitched to the band.

The to is formed by a plurality of plies which, a er being cut, are superimposed with their edges registering. These plies are stitched together in the relation shown in Figure 2, so that the two outer plies 13, 14 are disposed face to face and the interliner 15 is exposed. The stitching 16 parallels the free edge 10 and the two transverse edges 12 and isslightly spaced from these edges.

The top is then turned inside out, ordinarily by a manual operation, so that the plies assume the relation shown in Figures 3 and 4, namely with the interlinen 15 disposed between the two facing plies 13, 14 s 17 of all the plies inturned at one side of t e interliner and concealed. v

.This turnin operation forms at the oints P a surplus 0% material which hereto ore it has been customary simply to flatten in a pressin operation. It has been impossible to pro uce by this procedure points which are of definitel predetermined shape and absolutely mate ed or uniform. The simple turning operation heretofore employed leaves the surplus or bulking material to arrange itself within the points and a mere pressing of these points does not cha the position of or distribute this material, at merely flattens'the points and compresses the material. Aside from the necessity for positively ar-' ranging the material the points in a uniform manner, theother variable factors entering into the production of the points make it more difficult to match the same or obtain a uniform shaping. These factors be- I ing the variation in the area of the fabric between the lines of stitching and the edgesof the plies and the variation of the turning or infolding of the edges in the hand-turning operation. 7

F orthe purpose of producing points in which the surplus material is properly distributed, which are of predetermined and uniform shape or contour and which will retain this shape at least untillthe collar is laundered, I propose to internally distribute points. For this purpose I die are then disposed in a recess or external 1 die which may be positioned upon a bed 22 and has upstanding walls 23, 24 paralleling the edges 19, 20 of the die 18.

With the two dies thus interfitted, the walls of the outer die and the edges of the inner die are relatively advanced for the purpose of exerting external shaping pressure against the edges (transverse and circumferential) of the collar at its point area, thereby shaping the collar point. Although I refer to the abuttin relation of the external die walls with the ges of the collar as efiectin an external pressure, it will be understoo of course, that b pressure I mean simply an abutting relatlon which produces the shaping shaping effect be considered as produced by movement of the inner die or' by movement of the outer dies toward the inner die. This relative movement of the dies will impart a definite and predetermined shapeto the collar. The surplus material formed by the turning operation and which bulks the collar point, 1s distributed by the operator when in- .serting the die 18 and also by the relative movement of the dies, since the frictional engagement of the under surfacevof the collar with the to surface of the bed 22 as the dies are relative y moved will tend to advance the inner die 18 toward the point of the collar and effect a proper distribution of the excess material. This movement of the die into the collar, will result in the desired contour or shape which is imparted to the point by the two convergin ed es of the die which fol-' 'low, res

ctive t e transverse and circumferenti edges of the collar point.

The method also contemplates the applies. tion of heat and pressure to the surfaces. of

desired, it being immaterial whether the I point, whileit is being shaped, as

.an apparatus described in my copending application, above identified, andin this a plication there is shown only so much the same as is necessary to explain clearly the pressin and shaping operation.

As wlll be observed, the die 18 is disposed directly above the bed 22 and beneath a head 25. The head and bed are provided with electrical heating means 26 and the collar point disposed on the die 18 between the head and bed is pressed by means of upward movement of the bed 22, this upward movement being opposed by the head which is held in the horizontal position by means of an arm 2'2 supported in any suitable manner (not shown) and engaging a block 28 on the top surface of the head. Upon release of upward pressure against the bed, the latter may be lowered and by moving the arm 27 from the position shown in Figure 8, the head may be permitted to rise by rocking movement of the shaft 28 which forms a pivotal mounting forthe head and to which it is secured by the depending arm 29. Further description of this mechanism is thought unnecessary in view of the fact that it constitutes no part of the presentinvention and is referred;

to in this application merely for the purpose l 9f explaining a suitable mechanism for heatmg and pressing the collar, while it is being shaped by'the internal and external dies.

It has been found that collar points shaped in the manner described will be matched and will retain this shape until laundering.

It is possible to retain this shape after the repeated laundering operations which are necessary throughout the life of the collar by applying, during the manufacturing operation and also preferably before the shaping and pressing step, a Waterproof stifiening material. This material is inserted between the plies at the point of the collar and at the side of the interliner which faces the inturned edges 17. The inturned edges form at the points a space suitable for receiving this material, since they separate the facing ply ,13 and the interliner. Moreover, the material will serve to adhesively unite or in tegrate the several inturned edges and the- 'interliner.

For accomplishing this result, I may employ a cellulose ester in a volatile solvent. For example, cellulose acetate dissolved in acetone or other suitable volatile solvent is a suitable material, since it will remain substantially unchanged through repeated laundering operations. Cellulose binding materials of this character are insoluble in water and will adhere to the fabric in the form of a flexible and washable'stifiening layer. The coating inserted in the collar shape,

should be of a character which will penetrate the fabric to a certain degree without appearing on the external surface of the outer ply, so that the outside of the latter will have its normal appearance.

Instead of employing materials of this character, I may use merely gum arabic which may be applied in either powdered form or as a paste.

Such materials may be inserted in the collar in any suitable manner, but should reach the point P. '-Referring to Figures 5 and 6, the area at the point P is illustrated as containing a stifi'ening material 30 located between the interliner l5 and the outer ply 13 immediately adjacent the inturncd edges 17. After the material has been inserted and the die 18 has been disposed in the collar at the opposite side of the interliner, the collar may be subjected to the shaping and heating steps. The die 18 is maintained in the collar and Within the external die until the material has hardened suliiciently to retain the shape imparted by the dies; preferably the heat and pressure is also continued unless the stifi'ening material used is of a character which will not harden while the heat is maintained. In this event the heat is cut oil and merely the pressure continued until the material has hardened sufficiently. Since ordinarily on laundering operations will tend to modify-the it will be found that the collar may be quickly removed from the dies and the stiffentinuing the shaping and pressing steps until the material hardens.

Obviously, numerous variations of the method described may be resorted to without departing from the invention, the essential characteristics of which are set forth in the accompanying claims.

I claim:

1. In the manufacture of soft collars of the fold-over multiple, stitched-ply type, the

improvement which consists in impregnating With astiil'ening material the points of the fold-over top, and interiorly shaping the stitched points before the stiffening material has hardened and while applying heat and pressure. 7

2. In the manufacture of soft collars of the fold-over type, the improvement which consists in impregnating with a stiffening material the points of the fold-over top, in-

the other longitudinal edge which is to be secured to the band, turning the top inside mg material allowed to harden without conout, thereby inturning the stitched ed es and concealing the stitching, internally s aping the points and while the latter are being shapedapplying heat and external pressure to said points. 7

4. In the manufacture of soft collars of the type having a multiple ply fold-over top, the

improvement which consists in superimposing the several plies forming-the top, stitching the same together along one longitudinal and the transverse edges while leaving open the other longitudinal edge which is to be secured to the band, turning the top inside out, thereby inturning the stitched edges and concealing the stitching, internally shaping the oints, while the points are being shaped app ying heat and external pressure to the polnts, and thereafter runnin a second line of exposed stitching along said longitudinal and transverse ed es.

5. In the manu acture of soft collars of the type having a multiple ply fold-over top, the

type having a multiple ply fold-over top, the

improvement which consists in superimpos ing the several plies forming the top, stitching the same together along one longitudinal and two transverse edges while leaving free the other longitudinal edge which is to he secured to the band, turning the top inside out thereby inturning the stitched edges and concealing the stitching, impregnating with a waterproof stiffeningv material the areas where the transverse and longitudinal lines of stitching meet and interiorly shaping the points while said material is not hardened, and while'the latter are being shaped applying heat and external pressure to the points. In the manufacture of soft collars of the fold-over multiple, stitched-ply type, the improvement which consists in impregnating with a water resistant stiffening material the points of the fold-over to and interiorly shaping the points before t e stiffening material has hardened.

, 8. In the manufacture of soft collars of the type having a multiple ply fold-over top, the improvements which consists in superimposing the several plies forming the top; stitching the same together along one longitudinal and two transverse edges while leaving free the other longitudinal edge which is to be secured to the band, turning the top inside out thereby inturning the stitched posin edges and concealing the stitching, impregnating with a stiffening material the areas where the transverse longitudinal lines of stitching meet, interiorly shaping the points while said material is not hardened, and thereafter running a second line of stitching along said stitched edges.

9. In the manufacture of soft collars of the fold-over type, the improvement which consists in impregnating with a stiffening material the points of the fold-overtop by internally shaping the points and while the the improvement which consists in superim posing the several plies forming the top, stitching the same together along one longitudinal and the transverse edges while leaving open the other longitudinal edge which is to be secured to the band, turning the top inside out, thereby inturning the stitched edges and concealing the stitching, internally shaping the points and while the latter are being shaped applying heat and pressure, the pressure being applied against the surfaces and edges of the collar.

11. In the manufacture of soft collars of the type having a multiple ply fold-over top, the improvement which consists in superim the several lpliesforming the top, stitching the same together along one longitudinal and the transverse edges while leav- 1 ing open the other longitudinal edge which is to be secured to the band, turning the top inside out, thereby inturning the stitched edges and concealing the-stitching, internally shaping the points and while the latter are being shaped applying heat and pressure, the pressure being applied against the surfaces and edges of the collar, and thereafter running a second line of ex os'ed stitching along said longitudinal an transverse edges.

12. In the manufacture ofsoft collars of the type having a multiple ply fold-over top,

\the improvement which consists in superim-'.

posin the several plies forming the top, stitching the same together along one longitudinal and two transverse edges while leaving free the other lon itudinal edge which is to. be secured to the and, turning the top inside out thereb inturning the stitched edges and concealing the stitching, impregnating with a stiffening material the areas where the transverse and longitudinal lines of stitching meet, while said material is not hardened internally shaping the oints and while the latter are being shape applying heat and external pressure, the pressure being applied a at both the surfaces and edges of the 00 at.

' tudinal and two transverse edges, turningthe top inside out, thereby inturning the stitched ed es and concealing the stitching, interiorly s aping the points including the adjacent longitudinal and transverse edges and while shaping the same applying heat to the points and exerting an external pressure against said adjacent longitudinal and tran verse edges.

14. In the manufacture of soft collars of the type having a multiple ply fold-over top, the improvement which Conslsts in superimposing the several plies forming the top, stitchmg the same together along .one longitudinal and the transverse edges while leaving open the other longitudinaledge which 1s to be secured to the band, turning the top inside out, thereby inturnin the stitched edges and concealing the stitc ing, internally and externally shaping the points by ex erting a rigid confining pressure along the edges at the points between rigid surfaces arranged internally and externally of the points and while the latter are confined to desired shape applying heat andexternal pressure to said points.

15. In the manufacture of soft collars of the type having a multiple ply fold-over top,

the improvement which consists in superimposing the several plies forming the top, stitching the same together along one longitudinal and the transverse edges while leaving open the other longitudinal edge which is to be secured to the band, turning the top inside out, thereby inturning the stitched edges and concealing the stitching internally shaping the points, shaping the points by externally confining the edges of the collar at the. points, and while the latter are confined to shape applying heat and external pressure to said points.

16. In the manufacture of soft cellars of i the type having a multiple ply fold-over top,

the 1mprovement which consists in superimposing the several plies forming the top, stitching the same together along one longitudinal and the transverse edges while leaving open the other longitudinal edge which is to be secured to the band, turning the top inside out, thereby inturning the stitched edges and concealing the stitching, internally shaping the points, externally confining the points and while the points are externally confined to desired shape applying heat and external pressure to the points, and there.- after running a second line of exposed stitching along said longitudinal and transverse ed es.

T7. In the manufacture of soft collars of the type having a multiple ply fold-over top,

the improvement which consists in superimposing the several plies forming the top, stitching the same together along one longitudinal and the transverse edges while leaving open the other longitudinal edge which is to be secured tovthe band, turning the top inside out, thereby inturning the stitched edges and concealing the stitching, internally shaping the points, externally shaping the points and while the'latter are being shaped] applying heat and pressure, the pressure lee-,1 ing applied against the surfaces and edges the'collar, and thereafter running a second Y line of exposed stitching along said longi tudinal and transverse edges. v 18. In the manufacture of soft collars of] the type having a multiple ply fold-over top, the improvement which consistsin superirn posing the several plies forming the top, stitching the same together along one longitudinal and the transverse edges while leav ing open the other longitudinal edge which is to be secured to the band, turning the top inside out, thereby inturning the stitched edges and concealing the stitching, internals ly shaping the points, shaping the points by externally confining the edges and while the latter are being shaped applying heat and pressure, the pressure being applied against the surfaces, and thereafter running a secend line of exposed stitching along said longitudinal and transverse edges.

19. In the manufacture of soft collars oil the type having a multiple ply fold-over top, the improvement which consists in superim posing the several plies forming the top, stitching the same together along, one longitudinal and the transverse edges while leaving open the other longitudinal edge which i is to be securedto the band, turning the top inside out, thereby inturning the stitched edges and concealing the stitching, internally shaping the points, shaping the points by confining the edges externally and internally and while the latter are being shaped applying heat and pressure, the pressure being applied against the surfaces, and thereafter running a second line of exposed stitching along said longitudinal and transverse edges. 20. In the manufacture of soft collars of the type having a multiple ply fold-over top, the improvement which consists in superimposing the' several plies forming the top, stitching the same together along one longitudinal and the transverse edges while leaving open the other lcngitudiral edge which and pressure, the pressure being applied. against the surfaces.

21. In the manufacture of soft collars of latter are confined to shape applying heat nally and internally confining the edges and i externally of v the I the foldeover type, the improvement which consists in stitching together theseveral plies forming the top, turning the top inside out and thereafter shaping the points by exterprising cloth plies edge-turned, said method comprisin compressing the points between substantial parallel surfaces arranged internally an externally of the points, and

the type having a multiple ply foldover top, the improvement which consists in superimw posing the several plies forming the top, stitching the same together along one'longitudinal and the transverse edges while leaving 0 n the other longitudinal edge which is to secured to the band, turning the top inside out, thereby inturmn the stitcheded es and concealing the stitching, and interna 1 and externally shapin the oints and whi e the latter are being s a applyin heat and pressure, the pressure hein applied against the surfaces and ed es of t e collar.

WALTER BEATTIE.

holding the turned edges firmly against surfaces arranged internally and. externally of the points and disposed transversely of said parallel surfaces to form the desired edge contour during the com ression.

24. The method 0 shapin the points of a textile product, such as a col ar or cufi, comprising cloth plies'edge-turned, said method comprisi compressing the points between substantia parallel surfaces arranged internally and externall of the points, applying heat tothe points uring the compression, and holding the turned edges to'the desired contour during the compression by confining the same under ressure between surfaces arranged interna points.

25. The method of shapin the points of a textile product such as a col ar or cufl' comcloth plies edge-turned, which method comprises compressmg the points between y and externally of the substantiall parallel surfaces arranged internall an externally of the points to condense e points and forcingthe edges thereof against surfaces' 'arrang'ed internally and ints and substantially normal to the para el surfaces and delineating the contour each int is to assume.

'26. The method 0 shop textile prgldizclzlt mg? as add fi P 5 0 P 5 e 4 meth comprises impacti n g and compressing the points between substantially parallel surfaces arranged internally and externall of the points to condense the ed portions of the points, edges between rigid surfaces'a thereof for shaping these and a me Inter'naelliyv d externally of the points to a well defin contour during impacting and com- 7 v pressing the points of a ar or out! com- 7 -turned, which applying heat during these operatmona to 7 cause the edgee'- rmanentl to amume the desired contour. pa

-27. Inthe manufactured aofteollarl of 

